Wednesday, August 15, 2012

August 4 - 8 - La Paz, Bolivia


I took the morning bus to La Paz and arrived there around 1pm. I decided to head to a hostel called Wild Rover which had been recommended to me by a friend. To get there I first tried grabbing a cab. When I got in another man got in right after me to share the cab which made me uneasy. About 30 seconds later, the cab driver stopped to pick up another man in plain clothes who claimed to be the police and demanded to see my passport. Luckily I always travel with my bag in the back seat with me and had heard about that particular scam where they show a phoney badge and procede to rob you off your passport. I immediately got out of the cab with my bag and after about 10 minutes of walking was able to find another taxi to take me to the hostel.
Cholitas wrestling
Once again I arrived right in the middle of some sort of celebration/holiday and the taxi had to drop me off several blocks away from the hostel because of a parade. I had to make my way through the parade and crowd to get to the hostel. Luckily when I got there they had a bed for me and I was finally able to relax. I met the girl sleeping above me named Lauren who was from England. We talked for about an hour and then I went upstairs to the bar in the hostel to check my emails. Lauren met me up there after about an hour and we started talking about our plans for the next week. She had planned on staying a few days in La Paz, doing the Death Road tour and then going down to do the Salt Flats tour. Seeing as that was exactly what I had planned, we decided to travel together. We spent the rest of the day and night in the hostel at the bar and went to bed a little late and a little drunk...
The Death Road
The next day we wandered around and looked for a place to book the Death Road bike tour. After booking it we decided to join some of the guys from our dorm to a Cholita wrestling match. Basically it was like the WWE except with fat old Bolivian men vs traditionally dressed Bolivian women. It was quite ridiculous and slightly entertaining because it was so ridiculous but wasn't as great as everyone had told us it would be. That night we hung out at the bar for a bit but didn't drink and went to bed early so that we would be ready for the morning.
The Death Road was the most dangerous road in Bolivia, having an average of 26 vehicles per year veering off the cliffs, until 4 years ago when a newer and safer highway was built. It is now used almost solely for biking. Riding down it we could see why it was so dangerous. The first part of it was very narrow, sometimes only wide enough for one vehicle,and it was rough and gravely with a steep cliff on one side and a rock wall on the other. The bike ride took about 4 or 5 hours in total and was really nerve racking but also a lot of fun. After the ride we had dinner and a swim and then bused it back to La Paz. We spent the evening once again in the bar with everyone we had met at the hostel.
The Death Road
The next morning we went to book our tour of the Salt Flats. We were not very productive as we were both hung over. After we booked it, we went back for naps and then once again back to the bar in typical Wild Rover style.
The last morning we packed up our things and checked out. The hostel let us store our bags there since our bus wasn't till 7pm. We went to the Witch's Market with some friends but didn't buy anything even though we needed warm clothes for the Salt Flats tour. That evening we had to say bye to everyone we met and headed to the bus station. We didn't actually see much of La Paz, which I'm not too upset about because I'm not a huge fan of cities. I met a lot of cool people and had a great time at the hostel. It was good to have some fun after the few days of shit that I had been through before. It got me somewhat back into the mood to travel and got my mind off of the tragedy that happened back home.

Monday, August 13, 2012

August 3 - Copacabana, Bolivia


The beach at Copacabana

Copacabana is located on the southern part of Lake Titicaca which is the largest high altitude lake in the world. Unfortunately the town isn't very nice. It was crowded because of some sort of celebration and there was garbage everywhere. I also had the misfortune of picking up a clingon in the Cusco bus station that followed me around everywhere I went. I decided to take the early morning bus out to La Paz the next day not only to get away from the annoying person following me around, but also because Copacabana kinda sucked. I knew most people just go there to get to Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca and can now see why. There was nothing there and it was dirty.  It didn't help that I was not in good spirits but I was pretty eager to leave.

August 2 - Cusco, Peru


I woke up early and checked my emails to find out tragically that one of our friends from back home had passed away from a climbing accident. I had to break to the news to Stace who was obviously devistated since Jane had been one of her best friends for years. We headed out to make the arrangements for Stace to head back to Calgary to be able to make it to the funeral. I decided to stay but was also very upset even though I wasn't really close with Jane. I spent the rest of the day in an internet cafe trying to figure if I wanted to continue travelling or even where to go after that. I decided to head to the bus station, see what destinations were available and decide from there. When I got to the bus station I asked around about buses and decided to go to Copacabana, Bolivia on a night bus.

July 29 - August 1 - Inca Jungle Trail and Machu Picchu

Stace at the beginning of the bike
Our day started out with a bus ride to the highest point of the entire trek at around 4100m where we would bike down from. They supplied the bikes and gear, and we followed the guide down the winding mountain road with the bus following behind. I was a little worried because a few people we had talked to said their guide didn't let them go fast, but that was not the case with our guide. He actually let us go as fast as we wanted with only a few stops where we waited for the others to catch up. He even let me use his bike after I got a flat tire about 2 hours into the ride. Both Stace and I ripped down the entire thing which was super fun.
We road 30 minutes by bus to the next town called Santa Marta after the bike ride where we had lunch and got checked into a hostel. It was an early night for both Stacy and I.
View during the second day
The second day was a hike to the next town called Santa Teresa. We were told it was 6 to 7 hours of walking, which turned out to be more like 3 to 4 hours of walking with another 3 hours of stopping and waiting. There was about a 1 hour break after the first hour of walking where the guide told us about the local plants they were used by the incas for different spiritual and medicinal purposes. He painted our faces with a paint made of a local plant, we dressed up in traditional clothing and tried some of drinks made with chicha which is a alcohol made from corn. We also tried chewing chicha which is still used by indigenous people for treating altitude sickness, combating hunger, increasing energy and treating stomach aches. Unfortunately we all ended up with really sore tongues as I think the substance they chew with the leaves to help extract the medicinal properties actually caused some sort of chemical burn on our tongues. However it was interesting experiencing the numb mouths and throats that comes with chewing the coca leaves.
Trail on the second day
At the end of the day of hiking an inca trail along a steep cliff and then along side the river, we came to some hot springs where we stopped for an hour. Not the nicest hot springs I've been to but still pretty nice after an afternoon of hiking. We caught a bus after the hot springs up the hill to the town where we stayed the night.
The next morning we had the option of doing a zipline or skipping it and meeting the group at the next town later that morning. Since Stacy wasn't interested and I had already done a ton of ziplining we decided to skip it. Unfortunately there were only two other options: take a bus to the next town, or walk 3 hours along the same narrow dusty road as the buses. Not being overly enthused by the idea of inhaling diesel fumes and dust for three hours we decided to take the bus. We arrived early at a place called hydroelectrica to wait for the group after they finished ziplining. There we found a small little tienda that served coffee and tea in the shade where we veged out for a few hours while we waited.
Tienda at Hydroelectrica
When the group arrived, we had lunch and started on a 3 hours walk along side the train tracks to the town below Machu Picchu called Agua Calientes. It was a gorgeous and easy walk as it was full of vegetation and cool rock formations and completely flat. We arrived in Agua Calientes around 4 and checked into our hostel where Stace and I had our own room, private bathroom and hot shower. We had dinner that evening where the guide told us our options of either getting up at 4am and hiking up stairs built by the Incas for an hour to Macha Picchu in the dark, or taking the bus at around 5am. Naturally Stacy and I chose the hike and am so thankful we did.
Machu Picchu
We got up at 4am, packed up our big bag which we were able to leave at the hostel, grabbed our day bags and started on the hike at 4:30am. It was pitch dark except for the little bit of light from the full moon overhead. Luckily both of us had our headlamps so we were set. We had to pace ourselves on the way up as we didn't want to tire ourselves out for the hike later up the Machu Picchu Mountain that overlooks the site. We made it up the hill in about 45 minutes when it was still dark. We were also right in the clouds which was really neat. We had to wait about 30 minutes for the site to open, then about another 30 minutes for our guide to arrive. When he did, we got a 2 hour tour of the site which was very informative. We then headed up the mountain overlooking the site. It was another 45 minute hike up another steep set of stairs. It was tough, but worth it. There was an incredible view of not only the site, but the surrounding mountains and valleys. We had lunch and started heading back down.
Stace and I on Machu Picchu Mountain
Stace was really hot from the sun so decided to take a nap in the shade on one of the terraces at the site while I ran around like a child in a playground to see more of the site. After about an hour or so, I was convinced I had seen every little nook and cranny in the site and we started heading back down to Agua Caliente. Once down we had to waste about 5 hours until we could catch the train back. We sat around watching the Olympics, then wandered around the market. At 9:30pm, we caught the train which brought us about half way, then caught a bus the rest of the way. We arrived in Cusco exhausted around 1:00am and headed straight back to the hostel that we had stayed in before we left for the tour.

July 27- 29 - Cusco, Peru

We left Sam and the hostel in Lima at around 6am to head to the airport. When we arrived there and went to check in for our flight, we discovered that I had stupidly booked the tickets for August 27th instead of July 27th. We then had to wait in line behind another couple who had done the exact same thing to change our flight. By the time they figured out if there was room on that days flight for Stace and I, it was already 8:15 am and the plane left at 8:45 am. We had to pay full price for the new tickets in cash, so I had to run to the nearest ATM to withdraw. Being in such a rush and a dolt I forgot to grab my credit card back from the ATM. By the time I realized it, it was too late and was already gone and we had to literally run to catch our flight. We just made it.
When we arrived in Cusco, we found a hostel as quickly as possible (although it took some searching because they were all full) and then headed out to find a phone to cancel my card. It was early afternoon when we finally had everything sorted. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around Cusco to try to find a McDonald's because we were both craving chicken nuggets. We finally succeeded, although they were cold and not overly satisfying. The rest of the evening was spent lying in bed chatting because Stacy didn't feel well (but not from the nuggets).


The next morning we checked out of that hostel because we weren't overly impressed with it and walked around trying to find a new one. Because it was the national holiday and it was a Saturday, almost everything was full. At noon, we met up with my friend Steph who I had travelled with through Columbia and she told us of the hostel she had found. We decided to head to the market, grabbed some food, booked our Machu Picchu tours for the next day and the checked into the same hostel as Steph. We went out for an early dinner that night since all of us had to be up early the next morning for the tours. Steph had decided to do a different longer tour than us and had to be up by 4am. Stacy and I had booked a 4 day and 3 night Inca Jungle Tour to Machu Picchu. We were all very excited that evening for our tours the next day. We headed back to the hostel early and off to bed.

July 26 - Lima, Peru

Lima
Sam, Stacy and I arrived in Lima early in the morning and were able to check into our hostel and take a nap. We woke up around 10am and decided to check out the area which looked quite nice and was not what I was expecting. We also planned to check out a nearby market to buy some souvenirs since Sam had to fly out the next day. We wandered around Lima till we found the market, shopped for a few hours then went for dinner. After dinner we headed back to the hostel to pack our bags and Stace and I got ready to head to Cusco the next morning. Not an overly exciting day to report about but it was nice to actually get some nice things to send home.